Oslo

We're here visiting Fredrik, who was an exchange student with us five years ago.  It's good to see his smiling face, and where he lives.

We started the day at the Norwegian National Gallery of Art, which is holding a big exhibit celebrating the 150th anniversary of Edvard Munch's birth.  Strictly no photographs allowed.  We learned there's a lot more to his work than the famous Scream:  he was a gifted, self-taught painter who mastered a variety of techniques,  and very much blazed his own trail.

We then went on a tour of the Royal Palace.  Again, no photos inside.  The palace is not large by the standards of other European Royal palaces, but it had lots of charm. In the grounds was a statue of the very shy, very thin-waisted Queen Maud.

It rained off and on all day, anywhere from a light mist to a healthy downpour.

The National Theater

We enjoyed a snack in a cafe (with generously sized mugs!).

We then visited the Viking ship museum.  These three ships, in various states of repair, were recovered early in the previous century.  All had been used for burials.  The ships are holding up well, and show remarkable detail.  Many of the grave goods look well, but their state of preservation is precarious due to techniques used in the past.

The next day we walked downtown, stopping in at the cathedral, which had beautiful contemporary frescoes on the ceiling.  There was also a "street chapel" outside, not yet open for the day.

The royal box

The Oslo Opera House, and the productions showcased out front, seemed very edgy... but also high quality.  People were enjoying climbing up to the roof, and enjoying the view.

 The fortress of Akershus Slott had charming grounds, but a rather dismal history.  Starting in medieval times, it saw many battles, then was converted to a prison, often with poor conditions.  There was a nice view of the harbor from the battlements.

 We walked back through downtown to Fredrik's apartment to retrieve our bags, then went on to the train station.  There was mechanical trouble up the line, and all the metro trains were suffering delays of nearly an hour.  We were concerned about missing our flight, but need not have worried:  the pilot was late in arriving due to the same issue! 

We flew Norwegian Air, which decorates the tails of their planes with famous Nordic people.  The clouds and countryside were a pretty sight as we left for Denmark.

Tromsø

An overview

 

You quickly run out of words to describe the beauty of the scenery around northern Norway.  I find myself taking lots of panoramic shots!  Tromsø is set on an island amidst fjords and mountains.  Tunnels and bridges connect it to nearby islands and the mainland.  

Our first expedition was a hike to the top of the nearby mountain of Storsteinen.  The warm weather and the incline had me a bit winded by the time we got to the top.  Did you know the world's most northern brewery is nearby?  We rode the cable car back down.

An organ concert at the cathedral

The best thing that happened on our second day was that Noralynn got her cast removed from her arm.  There's still some more healing needed for her broken finger;  her hand remains in a brace.  While she and Guro were at the hospital, Guro's parents and I attended a short organ concert at the Arctic Cathedral.  The organ was well-suited to the program of mostly north-European baroque works.

An evening cruise

 

We caught the last ferry of the evening which stopped at villages on small islands in the Norwegian sea.  The dashed red line leading north by northwest from the island northwest of Tromsø is the route we took.  Guro peeled some shrimp, and we snacked on shrimp and avocado sandwiches while enjoying the view, and the beautiful weather.

 The University botanic gardens

Guro's parents both hold positions at the University of Tromsø.  We walked from their home to the botanic gardens.  On the way, we learned a lot about the local rocks from an exhibit by the geology department.  The botanic gardens specialize in plants from arctic climates all over the world.

 Senja and Husøy

We took a ferry to the very large island of Senja, then drove to the very small island of Husøy.  Guro's parents had arranged for a fishing trip with friends of theirs.  Fishing was done with a weighted line with lures, which was dangled over the side, then twitched to attract the fish.  We could see mackerel near the surface of the harbor, but we must have spooked them, as they didn't bite.  Out in the bay we caught lots of pollock, and one each of cod and mackerel.  

Back at their home, we had a lunch of very fresh fish (boiled or fried) and boiled potatoes, and for dessert, ice cream with Norwegian cloudberries.

We drove home, with lots of scenic views of mountains and fjords on the island of Senja. 

Museums

 

The Polaria museum has exhibits on creatures that live in the arctic seas. 

 

A featured attraction are the seals.  We were there at feeding time.  The animals are trained, not for show, but to facilitate medical care, and so they don't get bored.

 

 The Polar museum has artifacts from the early Norwegian trappers, fishermen, and whalers who explored the area, as well as the great explorers Nansen and Amundsen. Nansen designed the ship Fram with a unique rounded bottom.  Under pressure from polar ice, the Fram would be squeezed upwards, rather than being crushed to pieces. Both he and Admunsen used this ship.

 Next to the Polaria museum is the sealer Polstjerna. 

You can climb around this old lady, and learn about the lives of Norwegian arctic sealers. 








Below ground, under the ship, is an exhibit about what the Norwegian explorers learned from the native Arctic people.  Much of their success was based on their adoption of kayaks, dogsleds, sledges, and fur clothing.  

evolutionary adaption

The Tromsø museum has exhibits on the geology, natural history, and culture of this Arctic region. 

local building stone

a Viking sword

a sermon timer

 

Sami costume

We've found Tromsø to be a beautiful place.  It's a tough place to live:  the people here do love it, carrying a warmth inside to compensate for the prevailing cold.