Innocents Abroad: Edinburgh

Here we go again! Two years later, and several more exchange students. We are going to visit Ivana and her family in Macedonia, and re-visit Bryndis and her family in Iceland. But first, I'm making good on an old promise to Noralynn: we're visiting Scotland and Ireland.

We flew Aer Lingus from Chicago to Dublin, then on to Edinburgh.

We arrived early this morning, local time, and were determined to keep active in order to fight jet lag. So we took a hike. The weather was unusually nice. We bought a picnic lunch at a church building that had been converted to a marketplace.

We ate our picnic just outside the Scottish Parliament.

I don't know what these are, but they were in bloom all over the hillsides.

Holyrood Park

Holyrood Park is just adjacent to Parliament. It's somewhat rugged terrain. Hutton, the father of modern geology, realized here that active vulcanism had scorched the sandstone (the tallest peak, Arthur's Seat, is a volcanic plug).

The Scottish Parliament

On our way back we visited the Parliament building, with the ceremonial mace.

On the Royal Mile near Parliament there were sayings set on the stone of the wall, and a geologic reminder of construction materials.

And we did celebrate with a dinner at the Conan-Doyle pub, built near his former home. We both had the fish and chips. Tasty.

On Sunday morning we went down to the Waverley Train Station to pick up our tickets for Wednesday's trip to Inverness. It's named for a series of novels by Sir Walter Scott. The original W.H. Smith was probably the model for Gilbert and Sullivan's "Sir Joseph Porter" in HMS Pinafore.

We also purchased a tourist bus pass (hop on, hop off) for getting around town (there are hills all over the place, and hard cobblestones). A marathon disrupted the routes, so we got off at at the Dynamic Earth geology museum, the closest stop to Holyrood House. We didn't go inside, but admired the outside exhibits.

Holyrood House

Holyrood House is the official residence of the Queen when in Scotland. Legend has it that the "Holy Cross" was seen between the antlers of a stag, prompting the building of an Abbey, now in ruins. Pictures weren't allowed inside.

Pictures were allowed inside the Queen's Gallery, which had a special exhibit on "Gold".

a painting of the coronation of Queen Victoria

The National Museum of Scotland

We hopped on the bus, then hopped off at the National Museum of Scotland. We only had a few hours here: not enough time (we will return)!

James Watt

a happy Javanese couple

the Lewis chessmen

early Scottish exports: coal, lead and salt

the view from the roof

Greyfriars Bobby

Bobby was the faithful companion of a policman. So faithful, that after the policeman's death Bobby daily visited the gravesite, until he too died. People rub his nose for luck (so much so that it needs periodic replacement). We stopped for a pint (Greg) and a cup of tea (Noralynn) in the pub, where we chatted with some geology students. They told us James Hutton was buried in the yard of nextdoor Greyfriar's kirk. The vaulted roof is California redwood!

On the walk back to our hotel we passed Harry Potter's birthplace.

St. Giles Cathedral

That evening we went to a service at St. Giles Cathedral (the "mother church" of the Presbyterian Church). There were a dozen or so of us there, but there were hymns and lovely organ music. The preacher was American.

baptismal font

Noralynn, the pastor, and the organ
The service was in the aisle just behind

On Monday morning we visited Edinburgh Castle. The predicted rain didn't arrive (yet).

The apartments inside have been nicely restored.
But pictures of the crown, sword, and the Stone of Destiny weren't allowed.

the keys to the city, with tags for the royal visits

This demonstrator showed how a Jacobite (in the time of Bonnie Prince Charlie) would have done up his kilt (our volunteer was a her):

Lay the fabric down, and make pleats in the middle section, using the fabric as a guide
Tuck a belt underneath
Lie down on the fabric
Roll left and right to gather the side fabric in front
Get someone to help cinch the belt tight
Stand up
Form spare fabric into pockets (this is "kilting"), or throw over the shoulder, as desired.

We had afternoon tea at the Castle Tea Room. Little sandwiches, a scone, and little cakes. One serving was just right for two to share.

The castle is built on a volcanic plug, which peaks through in places.

Margaret's chapel (12th century) is the oldest part of the castle.

There are nice panoramas from the top

A working demonstration loom, in a shop on the way back to town

The National Portrait Gallery

We hopped on the bus, and then off near the National Portrait Gallery. The entry hall reminded us of the Library of Congress. It also had a lovely library. There were portraits and busts of the very famous (Robert Burns, Mary Queen of Scots, Sir Walter Scott and Bonnie Prince Charlie). But here are some other famous Scots:

The Duke of Wellington


Thomas Cochrane, Earl of Dundonald this naval hero was a model for Horatio Hornblower and Jack Aubrey

James Watt

Eric Liddell, Olympic medalist and missionary

It started to rain earnestly once the Gallery closed. We ducked in out of the rain for a simple, warm supper (mine was steak pie with peas and chips).

Next morning we took the bus to

The Scottish National Gallery

This isn't painting: it's embroidery!

This Gainsborough was my favorite. Noralynn and I have seen our daughter use this look.

Out in front was a great spot for views of the city

Here's a city model. The castle is in the back right, with the Royal Mile leading down from it to the left.

We took a tour bus which does the "majestic tour" out to the outlying regions, including Leith Harbor.