Saturday, July 13, 2013

Leipzig and Dresden










For an organist and a chorister, a trip to Leipzig is a pilgrimage.  J.S. Bach is buried at St. Thomas Kirche, where he directed music.  A noonday service was in progress as we entered the church;  the acoustics were wonderful. 

Leipzig itself has been well restored.  We enjoyed a  lunch of curry-wurst on the market square.  The story of this oddly famous dish is that a post-war German cook had only leftover British (army) curry to spice up the wurst he was able to scrounge. 

Noralynn suffered a fall here on uneven pavement.  Her arm was sore and swollen for a few days, but is now healing nicely.





We stayed at a hotel in Dresden convenient to the downtown. Most buildings in the heavily bombed city had been restored, or at least rebuilt in a tastefully imitative style.  But one communist era building had been retained on the market square, complete with mural. 









Dresden teems with churches, and porcelain.  The Catholic cathedral  has a chapel with a memorial Pieta and altar made of porcelain:  the flames on the altar are a reminder of the city's destruction.  There's also a block-long porcelain mural in which the historic leaders of Saxony are on parade.
We had an afternoon appointment to visit the "Green Vault":  the treasure collection of the Saxon kings.  No pictures allowed, but the number and richness of the objects was overwhelming (we returned the next day for a visit to the "overflow" collection).    
 After our visit we strolled around the city, admired the view, and then settled into a gemütliche dinner:  I had matjes (herring).










The next day, after the return visit to the Green Vault collection, we wandered some more, including a visit to the Zwinger palace.  Gerhard successfully hunted down a favorite piece of cake, and the visit was capped by a short organ concert at the Kreuzkirche.



Friday, July 12, 2013

Berlin



Halberstadt and Quedlinburg












We are staying with Gerhard and Ursula in Hannover (Gerhard is a cousin of Noralynn's).  Gerhard could have a second career as a tour guide:  all that is missing is the colorful umbrella.  But all of us overlooked something, though:  Monday is "Ruhetag" (at least through much of the former DDR), and so many sights could only be admired from the outside.




In Halberstadt we did visit the Liebfraukirche and the cathedral.

Also being "performed" in the Burchardi Church was John Cage's  "As Slow As Possible" The performance is scheduled to last 639 years.  The church was closed (Ruhetag), but we were able to hear the performance rumbling through the doors.


If an American were to close their eyes and imagine a "typical" German city, they would not be surprised if they opened them and saw Quedlinburg:  half-timbered houses, red tile roofs, a Ratskeller.  


Quedlinburg (like Halberstadt) was part of the former DDR, and much time and effort (Euros) are being used to restore the original look and feel. 



 Many memories we'll take back home can't be recorded in pictures:
  • the tolling of church bells
  • the sounds of a pipe organ
  • the company of friends and family
  • the taste of good beer, bratwurst, sauerkraut, and bratkartoffeln










Saturday, July 6, 2013

An Icelandic interlude

We arrived at Keflavik airport in the mid-afternoon, but the airline wouldn't let us check our bags (or go past security) until 10 pm.

So we decided to call Bryndis Einarsdottir, who lives nearby in Hafnarfjörður.  She was free!  So we took a taxi over to her family's apartment.

We are already getting used to being fed too much very good food.  Tea, yummy cakes, a lovely leg of lamb, and good red wine were accompanied by great company.

An Icelandic pony
We took a leisurely scenic route back to the airport.  Here are some pictures:


A distant view of Reykjavik














Inspecting fish

Bryndis' boyfriend Fannar























We had a lovely, short visit.  It makes us look forward to a longer visit in August!

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Nuuk

We are so glad to be here in Nuuk.  Natuk Hansen and her mother Káte have welcomed us into their lovely home, which has a beautiful view of the bay.  We have seen whales and seals.

the Hansen's home
the view from our room















We have enjoyed several walks the Hansens, getting to know the area and enjoying the scenery.   The houses are painted with bold colors, which make a striking contrast with the more muted landscape.
Natuk's neighborhood



the cathedral













The area is dramatically gorgeous.  Káte took us on a short walk where we had this view. Noralynn has also admired some of the oldest rocks on earth.


Sermitsiaq
Archean rocks
We visited the National Museum of Greenland:  a good place to learn about the history and culture.












narwhal skull

Close by is a workshop that carries on traditional decorative work.










the Katuaq cultural center
Natuk and Tina










A friend of Natuk's works at the cultural center. She treated us to a "snack" of snow crabs.

I'm going to let pictures tell the story for a while...



"women's knives", used for seals
Greenland's flag
the travelers